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Men's festive costume from the second half of the XIX century, immigrant from the region of Thrace


In the 19th century, the costume from Razlog can now be attributed to the “chernodreshno” men's clothing, and this darkening of the ancient “belodreshno” clothing, which began from west to east, also affects this area. Only the work clothes preserve the look of the old wide white pants with a long shirt, and gradually they disappear. The current costume is owned by a local family with immigrant Thracian roots.

Men's festive costume from the second half of the XIX century, immigrant from the region of Thrace
Men's festive costume from the second half of the XIX century, immigrant from the region of Thrace

The men's festive costume was richly decorated with a braid. It was sewn by the “terziya” (the tailor-craftsman), who used home-made aba. The “cheshiri” (full-bottomed breeches) - brown or black were wide at the top and lined with a rope (string) for fastening at the waist. Below the knee of the trousers, the “full-bottomed breeches” is narrowed on the leg and fastened with wire fastening buttons, and the extensions of the “full-bottomed breeches” on the leg, decorated with braids, are called - front “lizhnik” (for the upper part) and back “lizhnik” (covers the heel of the leg). All seams and pockets are edged with several rows of braid - on lines, wheels and swirls.

The white shirt made of home-woven cloth, with a small collar and sleeves fastened with a button on the wrists, is girdled with the poturi. A sleeveless vest with a rich braided neckline and large braided buttons to fasten the front is placed on the shirt. The waist is girded with a few meters long red, black or purple belt. With light color for young, and dark for married and older men. The belt for men is like the apron with a girdle and a belt for women. It tightens and protects the male waist from colds so that he is healthy and able to cope with his daily work. In the belt the man hides the most necessary items: a money box, a bag of tobacco, a pipe, a towel, etc. On a holiday on a vest he puts on a “dolma” from a home-woven russet fabric, which keeps the body tight. When it cools, sleeves are put on it. The “dolama”, embroidered with braids is a sign of a man's solidity.


Мъжка празнична носия, преселническа от района на Тракия, от втората половина на XIX век

In the winter, shepherds and men working outside wore “yamurluk” (kebe) made of fur or beaten wool. A wide, warm and comfortable garment that is waterproof and protects from cold and rain.


They put socks on their feet, mostly in black, and wear leather shoes, which are preferred because of their ease and comfort for walking and working. In the twentieth century, the wealthier also wore” konduri” when dressed festively.

They put a hat on their head with lamb or sheepskin turned outwards, and in summer they also make a home-knitted hat at work.

Мъжка празнична носия, преселническа от района на Тракия, от втората половина на XIX век

Elements in a man's clothing are also interpreted as the social status, age and status in society. The “full-bottomed breeches” is the personification of the man. The more pleated and with a low bottom they are, as well as lavishly decorated with a braid, indicate a rich and elevated person in the community. In the past, if the boy was on the gurbet or was a soldier, the “cheshiri” or his hat were put in his place during the engagement to replace him. For the age, apart from the belt, the color of the vests is also looked at, because often the bachelors are in red, and the contrast with the black braided decoration attracts the eye of the boy and suggests the property status of the family.


Мъжка празнична носия, преселническа от района на Тракия, от втората половина на XIX век
 
 

Petar Bonkov from Razlog put on the costume.

The costume is owned by a family from Razlog.


The project "Study of the specifics and richness of national costumes from the Razlog region in the light of cultural diversity" is realized with the financial support of the National Culture Fund under the program "Cultural Heritage".


In fulfillment of the goals of the project we present some of the most beautiful traditional costumes, typical for the Razlog valley in the last 2 centuries.

We offer our sincere thanks to our hosts from the Historical Museum - Razlog, and to all local people who helped with the realization.


Special thanks to all participants and team members who took their time and with useful information, knowledge and valuable advice made possible the work on the project.

A reverence to the girls and boys from the town of Razlog, who stood in front of our camera and with their enthusiasm, youth and beauty revived for a new life the most beautiful costumes from old Mehomiya.






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