The costume was brought to Razlog by the Bulgarians, settlers from the villages of Banitsa, Karakoy, Gorno Brody in Sersko (today's Greece).
The costume was brought to Razlog by the Bulgarians, settlers from the villages of Banitsa, Karakoy, Gorno Brody in Sersko (today's Greece). Even by the name of the outer garment it is known as „gornobrodski klashnik“.
The suit consists of a long shirt that reached the woman's ankle. The canvas for „koshuli” is woven from quite handmade thick cotton for the base and for the introduction of a horizontal station with a width of about 35-40 cm.
The shirt - "koshulya" has embroidery on the lower end, most often with geometric ornaments, located as a framing strip on the skirts on the whole garment. The embroidery is made of thick cotton threads - the so-called contour full stitch. The same ornamentation is sometimes performed at a station. The stitches are arranged so that they form a dense embroidery with a predominant red or purple color, and the formed figures are ground with black edging. There is also embroidery on the ends of the sleeves.
In the absence of an embroidered bosom on the “koshulya” and a wide open bosom in the overall composition of the suit, an additional component appears in the clothing, called a bib. It is made of a cotton or velvet piece of fabric, which can also be lightly decorated and in the middle has got a string with which can be tied on the neck.
The outer garment is sleeveless, which is why it is called „kavade“ or „shutak” (from "shuto" earless, sleeveless). It is made of cotton fabric or velvet, short to or above the knees, with strongly protruding wedges to form a trapezoidal shape at the bottom, surrounded by several layers of black braid along the shoulder curve at the bottom and the bosom. The whole front part is made of "waffles" of small squares or diamonds, which are additionally made by hand.
A strip of velvet piece, quilted or padded, tailored and wrapped with a black braid called a „pala”, is sewn on the bottom of the hem.
In cold weather, the „shutak” is complemented by sleeves made of velvet, but with a color different from the main, which sometimes ends with fine lace. The sleeveless are connect with ties or a thin piece of cloth, which are transferred over the shoulders and pass through the woman's back.
It is belted with a homemade woven belt that has brown, green and yellow stripes arranged vertically. He tightens the clothes, gathers his fronts, and holds his skirts spread out. The apron is double-breasted and joined horizontally in the middle. It has a black base, and at its lower end with woven figures with red thread, crossed with black and ending in green. At the top of the apron is arranged V-shaped elements in different colors, it is called "monasteries". Another type of apron is single-breasted or double-breasted and is called „ahram“. Features in the apron with V-shaped ornaments located at the bottom. They have a colored braid on three sides and with tightly placed fringe at the bottom. The other apron used is red, purple or green and has woven longitudinal lines of varying thickness. Between them there are ornaments of different colors, and the lower end ends with lace, crocheted
An integral part of the women's suit with different types of metal jewelry. Additionally, buckles are added, which continue and are typical for migrants. They are made of precious metal, most often silver. The upper chest buttons are hung on both sides of the „shutak”. One end is with a beautifully crafted buckle, and the other is most often the head of an eagle. Both ends are fastened with several chains.
The veil is with a woolen headscarf, called in Razlozhno „kushak“, at the ends of which there are small flowers arranged side by side. It is also called the „sindzhirliya”. The four sides of the „kushak” are trimmed with fine fringes that can be: red, purple (wine), yellow, green. It is covered with diverging ends under the neck, which return to the nape. She is shoed with socks. They are knitted from a thinner exposed white wool. The toes and heels are made of red yarn, and next to them there is a woven and colored ornament.
Iliana Moneva from Razlog put on the costume. The costume is owned by a family from the village of Eleshnitsa, Razlog region.
The project "Study of the specifics and richness of national costumes from the Razlog region in the light of cultural diversity" is realized with the financial support of the National Culture Fund under the program "Cultural Heritage".
In fulfillment of the goals of the project we present some of the most beautiful traditional costumes, typical for the Razlog valley in the last 2 centuries.
We offer our sincere thanks to our hosts from the Historical Museum - Razlog, and to all local people who helped with the realization.
Special thanks to all participants and team members who took their time and with useful information, knowledge and valuable advice made possible the work on the project.
A reverence to the girls and boys from the town of Razlog, who stood in front of our camera and with their enthusiasm, youth and beauty revived for a new life the most beautiful costumes from old Mehomiya.