Second half of the XIXth - the beginning of the XXth century. The costume is from the collection of Tanya Kirovska - Gramatikova, a true connoisseur and researcher of the next costumes from Northern Bulgaria, gathered in an invaluable collection of unique costumes from different regions!
👉 You can view the calendar here.
👉 The costume dressed the beautiful girl Yuksel Lilova.
👉 A two-apron costume consisting of:
🔸 Back piece (valnenik) - it is composed of two woolen strips of fabric, woven multicolored strips of ornaments, connected by a horizontal seam and frilly at the top with 6-7 rows of woolen thread so as to form fine pleats. Covers the lower body to above the knees. The predominant colour is deep red. The lower part is richly decorated with filigree edging, lace, coloured edging and sequins. The bottom is circled with a black woolen strip of cloth called a “tsopa”.
🔸 Shirt (parte) - made of home woven white cotton fabric with red stripes along the fabric. It is ankle-length and is heavily ruffled around the head opening, hence its name - “barchanka”. The shirt is summer with elbow-length sleeves and a middle axillary incision. It is decorated with embroidery on the bosom, sleeves and skirt, filled with hand spun wool threads, mostly in dark brown and red.
🔸 Apron (bochcha) - consists of one fabric. It is woven from the same colours of woolen threads as the “valnenik”, with the stylised geometric and vegetal figures arranged in horizontal rows. The apron is circled on three sides with black velvet and thick filigree edgings. Typical for the apron from the village of Bohot are the coins, which are arranged in 5 vertical columns that start just below the middle of the apron. The coins were not only used for decoration, but were also a sign of good material status.
🔸 Veiling - A white headscarf (barish) of home-woven cotton cloth or of factory-made brown silk cloth is common in the village of Bohot. The “barish” can be beaded or decorated at both ends with coloured wool tassels (kicheta). Under the “barish” is worn a cap, which the people from the village of Bohot call a small “kaitsa”. It is sewn of white cotton cloth, with rectangular pieces called “plesnitsi” sewn on either side, on which are sewn grape-shaped coins. The “barish” is placed on the hat and tied over the forehead, as the ends are divided in two in the middle.
🔸 Socks - knitted from thick, dark brown woolen thread. The decoration consists of circular multicoloured bracelets in the colours of the woollen cap and apron, separated by beads.
👉 See how the beautiful Yuki presents herself here in her business card:
"I am Yuksel, I am named after my grandfather and I grew up in Bulgaria.
In my free time I like to read books, watch movies and go out. The feeling of wearing such a costume is very nice and if I was given the opportunity I would do it again! Bulgaria is a very beautiful country and I am proud to be Bulgarian! "
👉 Photographer: Petar Petrov
❤️ Тhe Live Roots of Bulgaria Foundation would like to thank Olcom Ltd. MoiataKozmetika.com as well as the digital agency Bogara Ltd. for the support in publishing this calendar!
